Running from the Waipi’o Lookout to the Waimanu Valley beach and back is actually a fantastic adventure run on the Big Island. Normally people hike into the valley and camp for a few days and the effort to carry all your supplies in can be considerable. And this forces you to take a slow measured pace to get to Waimanu. But when you are freed of all that gear and only need a little food, water, and emergency supplies you can really travel fast along this trail. It took me approximately 3 hours at what I thought was a leisurely pace while stopping to take piles of photos and video. After a couple of hours hanging out on the beach and exploring I basically just hiked the uphills and jogged the downhills (while stopping to capture more images) and it took 4 hours to get back to the Waipi’o Lookout. There were also piles of hikers heading in and out along the trail so it was hard not to stop and chat with almost all of them. Most were tourists visiting the islands and were so excited to have seen or about to experience Waimanu. To be honest, I was a little jealous. For all the years I have lived on the Big Island I had oddly never been to Waimanu. And my couple hours of wandering around the valley floor only whet my appetite to actually stay there for a few days and truly explore the area.
On this particular day the plan was pretty simple: feel out the trail, get an idea how long it would take to get to the Waimanu Valley floor, and explore the ocean under the cliff on the western rim of the valley. I’ll explain in a future article what my interest in the ocean under the cliff was all about but sufficed to say it was a rather intimidating swimming in the dark water, by myself, under that looming cliff of loose rock. So the day unfolded perfectly and I acquired all the information I needed and had a fantastic time doing it. I also highly recommend this run to anyone who feels they have the fitness, and the proper gear. Just get an early start and be sure to not only take pictures but stop and really enjoy this amazing landscape of Hawaii you are in. Remember, at one point hundreds of years ago, thousands of people lived in these valleys and crossed this path often. Feel their presence and remember their legacy.
Waipi’o Lookout to Waimanu Beach and Back – Facts:
- Approximate Distance: 18 miles to Waimanu River crossing and back.
- Approximate Elevation Gain and Loss: 6,000 feet. I have looked on Strava at friends of mine who have also done this and it appears their elevation has varied from 5,500 to 7,000. My Workout file showed close to 6,000 after elevation correction.
- Approximate time: 4.5 to 8 hours depending on your fitness and how hard you push. This is not accounting for time spent hanging out in Waimanu.
- Trail maintenance: The trail is actually in great shape. The worst section is coming down into Waimanu. This section is steep with piles of small to medium-sized loose rocks hidden under a light blanket of lauhala leaves. There is no chance you can lose your way on the trail. So if your head is down and you are pushing you will not accidentally go off-route. But do understand you are running over roots, rocks, mud, and contending with water crossings. And you will get yourself and your shoes wet – just part of the adventure.
- Time of day: The earlier the better. If you can get through the Z-Trail on the Western flank of Waipi’o before the sun hits you then the canopy of trees you run through from there on will hide you pretty well from the heat. But expect (and prepare for) conditions from very hot and muggy to cold, wet, and miserable.
- Trail conditions: If it is raining and or has been raining for days there will be a lot of mud and slippery conditions. And understand with a lot of rain all the stream crossings pose the risk of not only being uncrossable, but if you do get across them and it continues to rain you might not be able to get back to Waipi’o. So pack the emergency bivy gear and know where the emergency bivy is high on the trail near Waimanu. I have a picture of that covered bivy in the gallery below.
Waimanu to Waipi’o – Out and Back Gallery
Video Footage of the Waipi’o to Waimanu Run
Assorted clips to give you a feel of the spectacular landscape.
In the Waimanu Valley
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7 comments
Marcia September 18, 2019 at 7:26 am
I know you’re very busy right now looking for Kyle, however, could you, when you have a minute, talk about crossing at the rope instead of the “apparently” easier crossing at the ocean/river merge point? I wondered if Kyle encountered problems crossing the river in the Waipio Valley, where the keys were reportedly seen? Your stamina and expertise are amazing, thank you for filming your adventures. Marcia in Colorado
Warren Hollinger September 24, 2019 at 6:30 pm
Hi Marcia. Sorry for the late response. So I think what your asking is: could Kyle have had a problem at the river crossing of “Waimanu”? The days I have crossed at the river the flow never felt difficult at all. On a serious flow day maybe there could be a problem but the Friday that Kyle went out, the streams and rivers were not flowing hard. Crossing at the ocean is definitely less deep and the flow can be harder but unlikely to pull him into the ocean that day. All good points though. Thanks for the question.
Marcia September 26, 2019 at 1:43 pm
Thanks! We toyed with making that hike (we’re old, but seasoned) as we’re relocating to Hawi Town soon. I’ve read a few blogs about the river crossing(s) which the women made SOUND horrible (both Waipio and Waimanu)–fast water, current, it’s tempting to go closer to the ocean but don’t, had a hard time keeping packs dry, someone has to swim for the boat, all that. I think I should be way worried about the trail hiking, LOL. I think we’ll stick to trekking down to Pololu; we like that ride, but have never been able to leave our rented bicycles anywhere safe at the lookout in order to hike down to the beach. Tragic about Kyle. Who disappears like that? (she SES, living next to Rocky Mountain National Park, where people disappear every summer.) I was just reading Hawaii is #8 in missing people.
Run on, we love living vicariously through your writing.
Miranda July 17, 2020 at 5:10 pm
Warren, I really enjoyed your write up on your Muliwai Trail run! I backpacked this August 2019 (also?!) and wrote about it in a blog post on emandpie.com, but I LOVED re-living it all in your wonderful videos! Thank you so much for this great video footage. I also experienced that deep water crossing in Waimanu Valley and it was nice to see your shared experience because most other photos I’ve seen, hikers had such easy experiences crossing in low water. I’m curious to know more about the swim you did underneath that cliff in Waimanu Valley?? I was too worried to go in the water…. because ya know…. “plenty sharks”. Mahalo!
Warren Hollinger July 18, 2020 at 12:04 am
Hi Miranda, Thanks for the kind words! Ya, it is awesome out there. The swim in small surf is rather friendly but yes, the ever-present thought of sharks is always on your mind. I saw you did a huge write up on the trail for your site. Look forward to reading it in a few days. Loved the pictures. I’ve only run it out and back a few times and have never done it as a multi-day hike. I’m always jealous of everyone I meet along the trail who are going to be out there for a few days. So much to see and never enough time – haaa.
Miranda July 23, 2020 at 7:44 am
So awesome that you’ve done that trail run a few times. Being out there for a few days is fun, but how cool is that, to cover that much distance in a day and not have to prep! Just get up and run and be back in time for dinner and a nice shower. I love it! Keep trekking and posting!
Warren Hollinger July 25, 2020 at 1:22 pm
Thanks Miranda. It’s always nice to have the fitness to do that kind of stuff on the Big Island. The Island has quite a few big challenges like that where within an hour you can be way out in the Boonies and the only way home is back the way you came. So traveling light and fast has been one of my favorite styles of adventures out here.